Bob Stoeckley was kind enough to share some photos of his motor well changes. Enjoy! 

I did all this about 25 years ago, so I’m a bit fuzzy on how everything was before the changes, or why I might have done some of it the way I did. I wanted the motor well fully enclosed for both aesthetics and noise suppression. I first moved the motor mount further aft and lower. Lower to allow more vertical clearance for the motor, rather than having to raise the cover as some have had to do. The reason for moving it aft was so that the front cover of the well wouldn’t need to intrude so far into the cockpit. Also, I don’t believe it would be possible to lower it much without also moving is aft as there wouldn’t be adequate clearance for the mounting clamp bolts.

Image 1 and 2 show the front cover.

Image 7 and 8 show the motor mount.

The mount is about 1 or 1 1/2 inch lower than the original. The mount is made of 2 x 6 lumber and the spacers are tapered to angle the mount an appropriate amount to make the motor angle correct. 

If I recall correctly, there was originally a sort of a shelf (which I removed) in the back of the well. I also enclosed both sides of the well. (Image 3 and 4).

The resulting lazarette on the starboard side was opened up to the outer hull by cutting out the tray that was intended for carrying a gas tank, pretty much doubling the available space. Image 5 and 6.

The idle exhaust port and the crankcase breather both needed to be piped out of the well to eliminate fumes. The biggest challenge perhaps was getting the remote controls set up. I couldn’t use conventional adapters and cables, because that system would have required nearly a foot of clearance in front of the motor. I originally just removed the motor tiller/control arm and mounted it crosswise to the front of the well cover. The original control cables were long enough to do that. I had it on a pivot so that I could push it down out of the way (horizontal) when sailing, and could rotate it up within easy reach for motoring. I later changed to the remote setup shown in the photos. I was still able to use the original control cables, but had to do some modification to the control unit to make that work. Every motor would be different, and some newer motors use a dual (push/pull) cable for the throttle which might be particularly challenging.